Monday, June 8, 2020

Sit-Down Quilting with Rulers--Curves

My favorite way to quilt a Hexified Panel Quilt or One Block Wonder is with gentle curves or orange peels that curve from seam-intersection to seam-intersection. Since I press the seams all open when making these quilts, stitching all those seams in the ditch would be stitching only on thread. By using the curves, I secure every seam and create a lovely quilting design that is easy to do. I've done dozens of quilts this way completely free motion where the overall quilting is perfect in its imperfections. However, my sweet husband decided he wanted his Wolves Hexified Panel Quilt quilted with a ruler so the curves would be more uniform and fill more of each triangle. So, the adventure shifted early in 2019 to using a ruler on these quilts.
I've been teaching free-motion quilting on domestic and mid-arm sit-down machines for a number of years now. As my students have improved, they've asked for advanced classes using rulers. The plan was to teach several classes this year at area shops to demonstrate and teach quilting with rulers on domestic machines or sit-down midarm quilters. The COVID-19 pandemic changed all that as I cancelled all of my classes and workshops for the foreseeable future until we see how this all unfolds. I've considered doing an online class or Facebook Live, but haven't managed to make that happen yet. We shall see what the future holds in the way of classes--either live or online, but in the meantime we are playing with short videos taken with my camera to share.
I quilt on a HandiQuilter Sweet Sixteen sit-down midarm. The machine slides into a custom table that, with the extensions, is 6 feet long by ~30" deep. I have craft tables set on either side of my chair, tucked just under the edges of the table that carry the weight of the quilt as I shift it around. This allows me to keep the quilt "pooled" on the U-shaped nest and prevents the quilt from falling off the table and creating drag. I have quilted everything on this machine for the last almost 8 years from little 6x8" mug rugs to a huge 112x121" king size quilt with no problems. It just takes getting used to and focusing on the section you are quilting at the moment so as to not get overwhelmed by the larger projects.

Here's a link to a video (that Blogger says is too big to upload) that Les took today of me in action on my machine, quilting curves on a Hexified Panel Quilt using a ruler. I talked through some of the steps I take in holding the ruler, creating tension with my hands to keep the quilt layers flat, and more. It's linked to my Facebook page which I hope everyone can access. Be sure to follow me while you're there!

Now to add some additional illustrations and tips to expand on the information in the video.

While quilting curves on one of our Hexified Panel Quilts today, I was using the little 4" Arc by Westalee/Sew Steady. The triangles I was filling measure 2" from point to flat side within each machine pieced kaleidoscopic hexie. The 4" arc curve is acute enough to fill these triangles nicely. On some of my earlier Hexified Panel Quilts that had larger triangles, I preferred the Kelly Bean ruler by Kelly Cline Quilting that has a somewhat gentler curve. There are many options out there, so find the one you like for the project you're quilting. Be sure to have some sort of non-slip sticker or adhesive product on the back of your rulers. You don't want them to slip and slide while quilting, as they should be moving with the quilt as you move them together along the quilting foot. These have True Grip self-adhesive circles or leftover pieces from the sheet of circles that are designed for quilting rulers. The rings are die-cut on a full sheet of the self-adhesive rubber, so when the rings are all used, be sure to cut up the leftovers! There's enough extra to use on several more rulers. Also, always set your needle stop in the DOWN position when quilting so when you stop, the needle stays down in your quilt to hold it in place. If you leave it in the UP position, when you let go of the quilt after you stop, the quilt will likely shift and create a jump-stitch when you are ready to begin stitching again.
Before you start on a project, do enough practice with your ruler to know what speed you like to work at. I prefer to work at about 40% speed on my HQ Sweet Sixteen. As you can see from this picture, I have my presets on my machine set at 25%, 35%, and 45%. Depending on what I'm quilting, I can adjust up or down from there, but only on very rare occasions do I go beyond that 45%. I've found the speed that I'm comfortable with and stick with it. I find that when I set a specific speed, I can quilt "pedal to the metal" and not have to keep my leg/ankle in a constant state of tension trying to find and hold a specific speed. For those with midarms or even modern domestics that have a speed control, set it to a speed you're comfortable with so you can just put your foot down and go. 
Yes, there's a little 2" thick photo album under my heel. I have found that even when quilting flat out, having my ankle flexed causes a lot of tension and strain in my leg by the end of the day. By elevating my heel I'm pressing down with my foot, letting my calf/leg stay more relaxed. It's definitely easier on me than having my heel on the floor and my foot angled up to press down. It's a little thing, but whatever you can do to make yourself comfortable for hours of quilting will help you enjoy the process more in the long run.
Here you can see me holding the ruler snugged up close to the closed quilting foot, spaced about 1/4" from the intersections I want to intersect with my stitching. You have to remember that the space between the edge of your ruler and the needle centered in that foot is 1/4", so you have to take that into account when placing your ruler to get the stitching where you want it. When you turn the ruler around to stitch along the next seam, be sure you stop at the intersection, keeping your hands and the ruler firmly in place, until you have completely stopped and taken your foot off the pedal. The needle may take one more stitch in place as it resets to the needle DOWN position, so don't be in a hurry to move your hands. Once you've repositioned the ruler, you are ready to go again, holding the ruler firmly in place and giving a little tension to the quilt around where you're stitching with your hands to prevent any ripples on the back and to ease the layers into the space you're quilting.
When quilting gentle curves/orange peels, I prefer to stitch long rows of curves that alternate direction. I will follow those long straight seams, alternating my curves from point to point, for as long as I can across or around the quilt. These rows can be done in such a way as to quilt an entire quilt with as few as 3 or 4 starts and stops. Along each seam there will be a curve on each side of it creating the melon shape. Three long rows of curves create all of the quilting, with two runs along each line--quilting S-curves in one direction and back the other way to complete the melons. Once all three rows have been quilted along the seams, they create these stars or flowers within each pieced hexie.
This view lets you see the same quilting design from both sides. The front of the quilt shows the stitching, pausing at each intersection along the seams to move the ruler back and forth to create the long S-curves, ultimately creating the 6 melon shapes that create the star. From the back, you only see the stars or flowers as an all-over design. Can you pick out the row(s) that still needs to be quilted? Yes, it's not completely done. There are a variety of ways to quilt orange peels, but after trying several, this is my favorite.

I hope this has been helpful for those who want to learn to quilt the orange peel/gentle curves on their OBWs or Hexified Panel Quilts. Please don't hesitate to message me or post questions if you'd like more information!

More snippets from the sewing room soon,

Monday, March 23, 2020

Virus Crisis Face Masks: Sewing with a purpose

This tutorial has been updated with a third version as of April 6, 2020. Please scroll down to find the serged version with t-shirt ties! 

Yet another update that modifies version 3 slightly for ear loops instead of ties. Scroll down to learn more! May 27, 2020
New information I found this week was reported in a news release from the Wake Forest Baptist Medical Center about a new study on the effectiveness of fabrics being used to make cotton masks and how much they filter. The best fabrics include tightly woven batiks with a layer of flannel. I've been using a fun cotton layer, batik inner lining, and flannel lining for those without a pocket. For those with a pocket for an additional filter (provided by the recipient facility), I'm using the fun cotton, two layers of batik (one cut width of fabric and the other length of grain), and a muslin pocket layer towards the face. To learn more about the study which said the best homemade masks provided as much as 79% filtration, check out the news release at:  Testing shows type of cloth used in homemade masks makes a difference

I'm ready if I need a mask when going out and about.

The Global Pandemic with COVID-19 Virus
has us Sewing with a Purpose!

We are sewing with a purpose as we are learning to navigate the COVID-19 virus crisis. So far we are now under a "stay at home" order in our county. We have already been staying in as much as possible with minimal trips out for necessities only--occasional trips to the post office to check our mail and to the grocery store or pharmacy. In the meantime, to keep from going stir crazy or being overwhelmed from the constant news overload, we are back in the sewing room.
Les wearing his OVER an N95 from his construction days.

I was asked by my daughter if we could make face masks. She works in a continuing care retirement community with seniors in all levels of care from independent to assisted to convalescent in the same community. The director of clinical services had mentioned needing masks, I'm guessing during a staff meeting, which led to a discussion of my quilting/sewing skills, and thus the request was issued. As they both said, anything is better than nothing and these can help extend the life of the N95s that are so hard to come by right now by adding a cover over it and replacing as needed. We understand, and hope you do, too, that these are NOT CDC approved face masks; however, as the director of clinical services said, they are better than nothing and can go a long way to help their staff keep themselves and their patients at least safer, or to extend the life of their N95s until more become available.

I looked at a number of patterns and videos, and decided to tweak a version to suit our needs. I had read some people were adding an extra layer as a filter; however, I worried about the breathe-ability of those added layers and suggested materials. Rather than guess what a clinician might use for a filter, I made a pocket where such a filter could be added as needed. I also saw some using elastic to be hooked behind the ears; however, picking a "one-size-fits-all" length for the elastic seemed problematic. Also, in the process of being washed over and over, and going through a sterilization process, I worried that the elastic would deteriorate much faster, so I chose to add ties. Being made of cotton fabrics, these are fully washable and can be sterilized.

Be sure to scroll down for Version 2, an alternate finish with a different way to make the ties.

COVID-19 Homemade Face Mask tutorial--Version 1 

This is for a 9"x6" finished face mask with pleats and ties, and a hidden pocket to add a filter.

To begin, I took a package of double fold bias tape and stitched the length of it with a zigzag stretch stitch. Because the bias tape is so narrow, I cut 1.5" wide strips of water soluble stabilizer that could run under the tape along the feed-dogs of the machine while feeding the bias tape through the front of a braid foot, which is designed to keep a braid/bias tape/ribbon centered as it is stitched onto something. The stabilizer is very light weight, so tended to pull up as I stitched, but once trimmed off and then washed to dissolve the remainder, it didn't seem to make a difference in the stitching. By using the stretch zigzag stitch, the bias tape retains it's ability to stretch without breaking the stitches that will be important when tying them on. You could easily substitute ribbons or homemade bias tape. Get creative! Dig through your stash and find something that works for you and that will be user friendly for the recipients.

  • Cut 1 10x7" piece of good quality/tightly woven cotton. My choice is batiks or quilting cottons.
  • Cut 1 10x7" piece of lining. I'm using remnants of muslin, cotton sateen, and other leftovers in my stash. Fold one long edge of the lining piece ~3/8" twice and stitch to make a finished edge/rolled hem.
  • Cut 1 10x3" piece of lining and fold in half, press.
Sew 10x3" folded piece and 10x7" piece with one edge finished to the long edge of the 10x7" mask front, raw edges together. If you're using a one-way design/print, sew the 10x3" piece to the bottom of the mask front. Press seams towards the linings.

Cut 4 ties at 15.5" long and pin in the corners of the mask front just below the seams, sticking the end out ~1/4-1/2" beyond the edges of the face mask. These short tails will be double stitched for extra security in the next step.

Fold the lining pieces over the face mask front, keeping the ties secure at the folds. Over lap the folded lining piece over the larger lining piece, making sure raw edges are aligned along both sides, pinning to hold edges together, with the ties tucked safely inside.
Stitch down both edges of the face mask, back-stitching over the ties at each corner.

Turn the mask right-side out, pulling the ties to "pop" the corners out. Roll and finger press the side seams before heat pressing them. .

Take back to your machine and top-stitch around ~3/8" to secure the layers and encase the seam allowances inside.
With the hidden pocket edge at the top, begin folding ~1/2" pleats at both 6" edges of the mask. These pix show 2 pleats pinned and one more to do. You should get 3 fairly evenly spaced pleats. 
Return to your machine once again and stitch down the pleated edges of the mask. I stitched along the top-stitch line, turned and stitched 2 stitches over towards the center, and turned again and stitched back, making two parallel lines of stitching ~1/8" apart to secure the pleats on each end of the mask. 
The face mask is now complete and ready for a final press to set the pleats across the width.
The hidden pocket in the lining, accessible from the lining side at the bottom of the mask, allows those using it to add a filter if needed. 

COVID-19 Homemade Face Mask tutorial--Version 2

This is for a 9"x6" finished face mask with pleats and ties, and a hidden pocket to add a filter.

This version is similar to the mask above, only the ties are created differently.

Stitch lining pieces to long edges of face mask front as described above. Fold lining pieces at seams, right sides together to the face mask front, overlapping the short piece over the longer piece, and baste ~1/4" along short sides.
Make the three ~1/2" folds on the short sides, pinning in place.

Cut a 36" long piece of 3/4" or 1/2" double-fold bias tape (prepackaged or homemade) and mark center. Unfold and place a single layer of bias tape centered on wrong side of face mask along edge with pleats, and stitch in place, just shy of the fold line.
After bias tape is stitched in place, refold and wrap the double fold around to the front of the mask and pin in place. 
Using a zigzag or stretch stitch, stitch the entire length of the 36" long bias tape, securing the folds and the piece wrapped around the pleated face mask in one continuous stitching line.
Repeat for the opposite side and you'll have a quick finish for a face mask with a hidden pocket in the lining to add additional filters as the user desires. 

[Updated April 6, 2020]
COVID-19 Homemade Face Mask tutorial--Version 3

This is for a 9"x7" finished face mask with pleats and ties, and an optional inner pocket to add a filter. For this latest version, I'm stacking my layers, which in this case are fun cotton/tightly woven batik/flannel lining and then serging around them. For those who have sergers, this is a fast way to finish the layers for a quick finish if you're making lots of masks to donate.

Once the edges are serged, fold and pin the three pleats, and on you sewing machine, stitch around the mask, securing the pleats and adding one more round of stitching to secure all edges.

I've run out of bias tape and making homemade bias is, in my opinion, a time consuming pain. So, a friend was using strips of t-shirts which was a perfect solution! I have several stacks of t-shirts waiting to be cut up into blocks for quilts and I typically throw away the extra. I now have the logos cut out and ready to stabilize and have used the body of the t-shirts cut into 1.25" strips.
These make perfect ties that, if long enough, can be come a binding on the short, pleated ends with long ties in one piece. On extra large shirts, a single round cut in half was long enough to do the ties/binding on both ends of a mask.
To start, on the wrong side of the mask, center the long t-shirt strip and stitch to the mask, with the ribbing side up. When you wrap the t-shirt strip around to the front, the wrong side is up, which will help the strip turn into t-shirt rope, naturally curling into a tube for the ties. 
Once the binding/tie is attached to the back, turn the mask over and roll the t-shirt strip around the edge of the mask creating a binding. I was able to turn under the edge ~1/8 to 1/4", just enough to catch as I top-stitched the binding to the top, back stitching at each end.
After the binding is attached, at the end of each string tie a simple know. I folded the strip in half, ribbing side in, before knotting. Having the wrong side out encourages the strip to roll when pulled.
Stretch the knotted ties gently to get the t-shirt yarn to stretch out and roll.

This version is fast to make and the t-shirt ties work great! Don't cut them too narrow or they will break when stretched. I found the 1.25" width worked great and allowed enough width to apply as a binding.

For a great tutorial on making t-shirt yarn, check out

To use up short pieces of t-shirt strips, I simply folded one end in, wrong side out, as if making double-fold bias tape, laid it on top of the mask corner, and stitched diagonally, reversing 3-4 times, to secure the tie in place. Again, tie a knot at the end of each tie and pull gently the strip to create the rolled t-shirt yarn.

[Updated May 27, 2020]
COVID-19 Homemade Face Mask tutorial--Version 3.1

We are still serging our three layers together--fun cotton front / tightly woven, high threat count sheet or preshrunk flannel inner / tightly woven batik lining. The adult masks are made 9x7" and have 3 pleats. The child size we've done is 7.5x5 as requested by the local school district for their fall mask supply or 7x6 that we made for our grandkids. Both work, so pick the one you feel will best fit your child/grandchild.
For most of our masks we are now adding ear loops rather than ties, unless ties are requested. For these we are cutting the t-shirt yarn at 7" (6.5" for kids) and sewing both ends on at the corners of the pleated end of the masks at the same time we are doing our final machine stitching around the mask to secure the pleats.
This is the ~120 child size masks with just two pleats that we made out of fun prints for the kids at the Baldwin Elementary Center to use when school starts up again. To date, we have now made ~825 masks that have been donated in and around Baldwin City, Lawrence, Overbrook, Olathe and Sabetha, Kansas, as well as to family and friends from coast to coast. 


I hope this tutorial has been helpful. I know there are many, many quilters and crafters out there making face masks for our healthcare professionals. Don't limit yourself to donating to hospitals. Check with nursing homes, physical therapy clinics, senior housing facilities that may have clinical staff, and so many other options where there may be a need.

Thank you to all who are helping with the COVID-19 Face Mask efforts!

More snippets from the sewing room soon...

Thursday, December 26, 2019

Favorite Tools for making Hexified Panel/OBWs

When I think about what I use to make my Hexified Panel Quilts or other One Block Wonders and their variations, I travel to a variety of places in my mind. There's the original books first and foremost, then the pattern I wrote that breaks down how to actually build around the panel. From there I jump to various rulers I've used (there are many!), the foot care department for the molefoam padding, and other notions that make life easier as I work through my projects.

This post is about those other things that make this process easier. It's not all inclusive, but a few key items that truly help. Do you have suggestions for other notions that are helpful to you?
Here goes...

GDQ Pattern and Ruler

The following items are available on my Gypsy Dreamer Quilts shop.

Hexified Panel Quilts -- a pattern that explains in detail inserting a panel into the color flow of hexies

GDQ 5.5" 60 Degree Triangle Ruler -- a smaller ruler that fits easily in your hand when cutting triangle sets for Hexified Panel Quilts or other 60 degree triangle quilts. Since I rarely cut strips wider than 3.25" and most often about 2.75" or smaller, many of the rulers are just too big and awkward to use. While I've used many... Clearview and June Tailor are my former favorites as they have points on all three tips, the Creative Grid and Marti Michell are my least favorites because I prefer that pointed tip on top that creates dog-ears as I sew and press seams open, and everything from 6" to 12", coming up with my own smaller version so far has been serving me well.

Favorite other tools

To discover more about the original technique, each of the books written by Maxine Rosenthal provides inspiration.

Dr. Scholl's Molefoam Padding -- used by cutting ~1/4" strips to place the full width of the line on the bottom side of my ruler to help keep the triangle sets straight and consistent. On the ruler pictured, three different sizes are pre-marked that are used repeatedly--2 3/4", 2 1/2", and 2 1/4". Discussion of how these guides were added can be found in the Tips 102 post.

Clover Roll & Press -- a handy tool to press your seams open at the machine as you go when assembling three triangles each into your half-hexie units.

Mary Ellen's Best Press -- a quilter's starch and sizing alternative. Using Best Press will give your units more body and less likely to stretch along the bias edges of the triangles. If you find you use a lot, consider buying by the gallon and refilling a smaller spray bottle.

Spray Mist Bottle -- this misting spray bottle allows you to spray your Best Press or water in a fine mist for better coverage.

There may be others that I'm not thinking of right now. I'll try to add to this or create an additional post with more information later. If you have questions on any of these items, don't hesitate to contact me.

More snippets from the sewing room soon...

Wednesday, December 4, 2019

Part 2: Tips for Hexified Panel Quilts/One Block Wonders

Tips 102: Cutting Your Triangles

As I have been rewriting and updating my pattern, Hexified Panel Quilts, I'm finding there is more information to share than what can be included in the pattern. In my growing experience in making Hexified Panel Quilts and/or One Block Wonders, I have used a wide variety of 60 degree triangle rulers. The large rulers often used with wide border prints to create the twisting triangle table runners are great for that purpose; however, they are too large and awkward for making triangles for these quilts. I've used rulers from 12" to 10" to 8" to 6", and even a couple of 60 degree diamond rulers when in a pinch! In my opinion, the smaller the ruler, the better because it fits better in your hand, and a smaller ruler takes up less space overall as you alternate directions when cutting. For recent workshops and classes, shops have had a harder time finding smaller 60 degree triangle rulers, so when an opportunity came up to create my own, I went for it!
Introducing the Gypsy Dreamer Quilts 5 1/2" 60 degree triangle ruler, GDQ-60R! After making over 30 of these quilts, I have yet to cut strips wider than 3 1/2", so a 5 1/2" ruler is plenty of space to meet my needs. The rulers are etched with lines every 1/4" for ease of measuring your marking line. These are now available on my GDQ Etsy shop for $16.
Regardless of which ruler I'm using, adding a piece of tape, photo mounting tape, or even Dr. Scholl's Molefoam Padding does the trick of keeping my cuts straight and even along the strip. My absolute favorite is the Molefoam Padding. It comes in the foot care department with two ~3x4" squares per package. The thickness of the molefoam, as opposed to the thin moleskin, is similar to the thickness of your six layers of fabric being cut to form triangles for your Hexified Panel Quilts or OBWs. As I get ready to cut my triangles, I first cut a long piece off one edge--I'm not overly particular about how wide the strip is as long as the cut is straight.
Then I line up one angled edge of my triangle ruler, wrong side UP, with the 60 degree line on my 6.5x24" ruler. I place the point at the mark for the strip width I cut (in this case 2.25"), and then place the strip of molefoam along the triangle ruler at the strip width line, snugging it up against the edge of the long ruler. Once the molefoam strip is securely place along the bottom of the ruler, I trim the strip to match the width of the ruler.
Given that we are cutting multiple layers, having the molefoam extend to the edges of the ruler help to box in the triangles as you cut them. Without this guide, as you cut, you may find the layers tend to spread out and cause wonky corners. Boxing them in with the molefoam helps minimize this problem.
Immediately before cutting my first set of triangles, I check the layers of the strip to be sure everything is matched up. If one or two layers are off more than you would like, you can micromanage them, only along the length of the strip, by shifting the layers individually until all are matching to your satisfaction. For me, unless it is 1/4" or more off, I tend to leave them alone as they still blend beautifully when sewn into hexies. 
You're now ready to start cutting your triangle sets. Place the ruler at the desired place at one end of the strip of six layers. On this photo I chose to place my ruler where the frame around the panel will be hidden in the seam. I could have as easily moved it to the left, so long as I have it no closer to the end than where the shortest layer ends. You want every set of triangles to be complete with tips on all three corners.

After you make your first cut and set your first set of triangles aside, alternate the direction of your ruler as you cut back and forth across the length of the strip. 
The half-triangle on each end will be your only waste. The partial triangle on the right looks large enough to use; however, that is the selvedge end. Using that as a set of triangles could cause problems as the selvedges are woven differently and can add extra bulk to the seams. 

The number of triangle sets you will get from a strip will depend on the width of your strip. This strip was cut at 2.25" and yielded 14 sets of triangles per 22" long strip. Wider strips yield fewer triangle sets, whereas narrower strips yield more. A typical 2.75" strip (my favorite strip width for full WOF panels) that is 22" long will yield ~12 sets of triangles. Each row is then stacked with the direction of each set alternating, making them easy to grab to sew.

If you want to keep the sets together in case of disaster (kids, pets, wind, etc), you can certainly pin each set together and store them in a large Ziploc bag.

Extra Tip! Fussy Cutting Triangle Sets

There may be times when you want to keep certain elements of your panels to include in your hexies. Whether it means adjusting your cut across the middle of the panels to either side of the natural fold from the bolt in order to retain elements in the center of the panel, or moving your triangle ruler to include special elements along your strip sets, you have the choice of how our quilt is cut up. Don't be afraid to experiment to get what you want for your layout.

On a subsequent strip I came to a hummingbird that I wanted to be sure was included in my hexie collection for this layout. I chose to fussy cut and lose a little in the middle in order to get as much of the hummer as I could. 
I cut the triangle sets until I got close and then stopped to move my ruler over to see where I needed to be to include the hummer.  
I cut the hummer triangle set and then went back to the previous section and cut the flower triangle set, leaving a strip between them that is now waste. Since the strip was a little longer than I needed due to the extra frame at the end by the selvedge, I was still able to cut 14 sets of triangles from this strip. The final partial triangle piece was reduced by the amount of that strip between triangles. 

You're now ready to go to the sewing machine with a stack of triangle sets and get sewing! Part 3 is coming soon with tips on keeping a consistent 1/4" seam and more.

More snippets from the sewing room soon,